The Bar
Big Slick. 1017 E 6th St, Austin, TX 78702
Visited 9/11/2026 @ 5pm.
The Drink
Pale Coyote. Wild Bark gin, cypress seed pod syrup, grapefruit bitters, sumac bitters. $21.
Wonderful stuff. As it happens, the bartender here was the very same person who last year had guided us through the food and drink menus at Shokunin next door, and here he was still at the height of his powers, in full command of the cocktail bar, the menu of which he had designed personally. I'm not sure what cocktail genre you'd file this particular drink under (perhaps a variant on the Pegu Club?), but thankfully despite resembling a martini it was served in a coupe glass, the thinking man's cocktail glass. It was Texas to the last drop, as every ingredient had some sort of local connection, even the grapefruit and cypress. The gin in particular was intriguing, using juniper from the Davis Mountains (which I had just visited for the McDonald Observatory), but more importantly it tasted fantastic, especially with the accompanying earthy/floral/botanical ingredients. We had a long discussion about his syrup and bitters concoctions, which are all tinctures (not the RPG staple), and how deciding to focus on local ingredients can inspire creativity from a bartender who is trying to adapt standard drink templates to local tastes. There is also the persistent belief that tinctures can palliate allergies, so perhaps the profusion of infusions in this cocktail presents a marketing opportunity: rather than promoting it as hair of the dog, it should be hair of the coyote.
If you like to learn new things via drinks, and who doesn't, then this incredible gin cocktail is definitely one to try. I'm not pleased to have finally broken the $20 barrier for an individual cocktail (though it is "only" $16 in January 2017 money), but it fully justifies its price.
Rum cocktail. Rum, overproof rum, natural flavors. $20.
Time for another peek behind the journalistic curtain here. The first cocktail was so good, I had to have another, and the second option seemed like the natural choice. Unfortunately, I was having such a good time chatting with the bartender and downing rounds that I completely forgot to copy down the ingredients or even the name from the menu, so I have no idea what's in it (other than rum) or what it was called. I know, I know, what do you even pay me for. But you have got to try this one, as despite being vaguely hurricane-ish it was also superb.
Last Word.
I didn't get a picture of it, but after the drinks above plus a few side rounds he also made me the best Last Word I've ever had. As the chartreuse shortage stretches on and shows no sign of abating, every time I see a bottle on the shelf it starts calling to me like the Green Goblin mask. I don't know what wizardry he infused into this Last Word, the Prohibition-era classic from Detroit, but it was truly spectacular. I almost wanted another, but I had been here for three hours and it was time to go home.
The Crew
Notes
Big Slick is the latest restaurant/bar concept from Scratch Restaurants, a multi-city Michelin-tier group whose other venues in this same building NADC Burger and Shokunin I have already chronicled. About two weeks ago Big Slick replaced its former sister restaurant Pasta Bar, a $200+/person prix fixe pasta joint which closed in February. I was secretly glad I didn't have to cover it for this project since they didn't take walk-ins, thus violating the "you must be able to walk in and order just a drink" clause of my personal bar definition. Aw shucks!
I'm really glad this place does take walk-ins, however, because it was spectacular even though I didn't even eat here, which is like the whole point. Big Slick's primary selling point is that is an extremely high-end steakhouse. You can read all about the food angle at serious respectable publications, but this is a bar review blog, and even though everything that the actual diners ordered seemed incredible from where I stood, I did not venture beyond the bar area, which is a neat candlelit front alcove lined with art that gives off a cathedral/shrine vibe, kind of like Mezcalería Tobalá. Instead I hung out at the bar, and I had a blast.
When I walked in I was immediately served a cup of hot yaupon tea, which was informed was the only naturally caffeinated plant native to North America (here's a fascinating paper on the history of the multiple independent evolutions of caffeine in cacao, citrus, guarana, coffee, tea, etc). This set the stage for the next three hours of ordering round after round and chatting with the bartender in between him concocting cocktails for the actual restaurant patrons. He really knew his stuff about cocktails in general and local ingredients in particular, as you can tell by the drink reviews above, which is what a big chunk of our conversation centered on. I got a really top tier direct experience with craft cocktail bartending at the highest level, and the evening flew by in the blink of an eye.
By now you are probably sick of me finding different ways to bring up the recent socioeconomic/demographic changes on Sixth Street in the direction of more luxe bars, of which this represents one of the biggest examples. Well, I will bring it once up once more to say that I am glad that places like this exist. In an era of mass affluence, where the vast increase in wealth among most segments of society means that more people than ever can chase experiences which were limited to the elite within living memory, venues like Big Slick are another step on the journey the US is taking towards the ever greater affordability of luxury. I know it sounds crazy to use a place with $21 cocktails and $200 steaks in the same sentence as "affordability", but in relative terms, in previous eras a deluxe experience like this would simply have been unavailable at all to someone in a normal-person income percentile. While it's fair to debate the extent of inequality, extremely nice places like this show that, counterintuitively, access to the higher-end of life is only increasing for many people.